This cluster is in pretty good shape aside from broken mounts and a bad LCD screen.

I am sending it out to have the LCD screen replaced but before I do that, I’ve decided to replace the stepper motors and swap over the mounts from my original cluster.

Why Would I need to Replace These?

If a Google search brought you here, you probably know why you need to replace these. But if you didn’t, here’s why: The fuel gauge and temperature gauge in the instrument cluster are electrically driven using stepper motors. When those motors begin to fail, you’ll end up with a gauge that sticks at the top or bottom of its swing, one that is erratic, or one that moves inconsistently. Often, replacing the stepper motor resolves the issue. Fortunately, replacing those stepper motors is straightforward and easy to do.

Replacing the Stepper Motors:

Tools:

• T10 torx screwdriver
• Plastic smudger
• Needle nose pliers
• A couple of tea spoons

Supplies

• Replacement stepper motor (2) – I bought these from Tanin Auto Electronix. They are P/N TAEAUDI500-035 and were about $30 each. You’ll need two if you want to replace both the fuel gauge and the temperature gauge (you should do both if you do one).
• A scan tool capable of putting the dashboard module into diagnostic mode. I’m using an Autel MaxiDAS. There are alternative methods I’ll discuss later, which will let you install needles without a scan tool but it is a trial and error process.

General Overview:

From a high level perspective, replacing these will go like this:

1. Disassemble the instrument cluster
2. Remove the needles
3. Replace the stepper motors
4. Install and align the needles
5. Fully assemble the instrument cluster
6. Test the instrument cluster

Disassemble the instrument cluster

The stepper motors are attached to the circuit board. To get at them, we need to disassemble the cluster. For that, all you’ll need are a T10 Torx bit and a plastic smudger.

Use the T10 bit to remove the eight (8) Torx screws holding the white plastic back to the black plastic bezel. The bottom two Torx screws secure the spring for the vinyl steering wheel cover (thing). When removing those, keep an eye on the screws. They can shoot across the room when the spring compresses.

Use the plastic smudger to carefully pry the black plastic clip over the tab while lifting upward on the bezel. It should pop apart without much force.

Lift the bezel out of the way and sit it aside. You should now have access to the needles.

To get to the actual stepper motors, the white plastic backing needs to be removed. It is held in place with some plastic tabs which are difficult to pop free. I found that if you squeeze the housing in the right way, the tabs will deform a bit and the back will pop off.

Grasp the white housing as shown below and squeeze it.

While doing that, press upward on the electrical connector. You should feel a slight pop as the circuit board is detached from the white backing. Repeat this for the other side of the cluster and then lift out the circuit board and gauges.

Before the stepper motors can be removed, the needles need to come off. The easiest way to do this is using a pair of spoons. Place them 180-degrees apart, beneath the needle, and gently push the handles down, causing the spoon to lever the needle upward. Do this in unison with both spoons. The needle should ride upward and then be easily removed.

Now the stepper motors can be removed. Looking at the circuit board, they are the two electric motors in the center of the board.

Replace the Stepper Motors:

Each stepper motor is clipped to a pair of bosses which extend up from the circuit board. These bosses are white plastic and can be brittle. I’ve found that the easiest way to remove the motor is to use a pair of needle nose pliers and snap the little clips off where they attach to the circuit board. This will allow them to be lifted upward without risk of damage to the mounting bosses.

Once the little clips are broken, slip the smudger under the edge of the motor and pry upward. They should pop upward and come free of the board. Note that each contains a 3-pin connector which extends down into the circuit board. When lifted, that connector will come free as well.

This is what the stepper motors looked like after I broke their clips and removed them. Hopefully this gives you an idea of how they come out.

This is the replacement stepper motor. It should be identical to the ones removed.

Installation is easy. Align it with the two mounting bosses, ensure the electrical connector lines up, and push downward until it clicks into place.

We can now put the cluster back together. Place the circuit board/gauge cluster assembly back into the white backing and push downward. You should hear the plastic clips click into place.

Installing the Needles using a Scan Tool:

Now that the stepper motors are replaced, we need to get the needles back on. This is a bit tricky. Temporarily snap the black bezel over the gauges. Note that the needles and screws are not installed. This is just to protect things while we take the cluster out to the car.

Pop the black bezel back off of the cluster and carefully install the cluster back into the car. All you really need to do is lightly connect the three electrical connectors to the cluster.

Turn on the ignition switch. The cluster should power up.

I used an Autel MaxiDAS scan tool to put the dashboard into test mode.

Diagnostic mode for the instrument cluster is located on control module 17-Dash Board. Select that.

Then selective active test.

Start the test. The instrument will go through a series of diagnostics. The first is analog needle sweep. The needles will slowly go from zero to full sweep, then back to half sweep and stay there.

This is where you want to install the needles. Since the cluster is holding them at half-sweep, they should be installed so they point halfway on their dials. That is a half-tank of fuel for the fuel gauge and midway between cold and hot for the temperature gauge.

Push the needles on only slightly. You want them on well enough that they will function in another test but not on so tightly that you can’t pull them off.

Re-run the test and double-check the position of the needles. Mine were quite a bit off. If your needles are too, pull them off and re-align them to their midway points.

Repeat this process until the needles point to the half-way point when the test is run. When you’re happy with the position of the needles, push them in place with the silver center portion sitting about a mm above the gauge face.

Here’s a quick video showing the test procedure:

Installing the Needles without a Scan Tool:

If you don’t have a scan tool, you can install the needles with some trial and error. For this, you will need to temporarily install the cluster without its bezel so you can access and adjust the needle position.

Install the cluster, temporarily, without is bezel. Turn the ignition switch on.

The temperature gauge will set itself to point to the C on the gauge. The fuel gauge will point to whatever the fuel level is. Install the needle for the temperature gauge and point it to the C. Push the needle on lightly so it stays in place but so you can remove it and adjust it.

Drive your car to your local gas station with the cluster disassembled and the needles accessible. Fill the car up until the tank is full. Install the needle for the fuel gauge and point it to the F on the gauge.

Drive the car around for a bit. When the car is warm, look where the temperature gauge is pointing. It should be pointed slightly to the cold side of center. If it is here and if it points to the C when the car is cold, it should be good. Push that needle on so its silver center sits about 1mm above the face of the cluster.

Continue to drive the car until you reach empty and the low fuel light turns on. When this happens, the needle should point to the right-side of the red bars near empty. If it does, it is set correctly. Push the needle on so it sits about a mm above the face.

Finish assembling the Instrument Cluster

Wipe down the face of the gauges with a soft cloth and some mild detergent. Use glass cleaner to wash the inside and outside surfaces of the glass.

Pop the black bezel back on, ensuring the black tabs pop in place.

Install the T10 screws and tighten them lightly. Don’t overtighten the screws or they will either strip out or crack the plastic. Tighten them until they contact the black plastic only.

Reinstall the cluster in the car and keep an eye on the fuel and temperature gauges for a few days and make sure they are functioning correctly and pointing at the correct positions. If so, call this one done. If not, you’ll have to pull the cluster back out and go through the needle setting process again.

If you’re curious, I did have the LCD replaced and the mileage corrected on this cluster. It turned out great.